Miyako Odori

Miyako Odori is "The Dance of the Capital" and occurs every spring during the month of April in the old capital of Kyoto. The first Miyako Odori took place in 1872 and has been a popular event for locals and visitors ever since.

During our trip to Japan last spring, I desperately wanted to see some real geisha (geiko) and not just catch a glimpse of one at night on the streets of Gion. We were so lucky that our visit coincided with that year's Miyako Odori.

Miyako Odori is a dance and musical performance put on by the maiko and geiko of Gion Kobu. Maiko are apprentice geiko, who are still training to become full-fledged geiko.

Since 1873 the performance has been held in the same beautiful theatre, the Gion Kobu Kaburen-jo Theatre.

Prior to the performance, we explored the gardens of the theatre and looked at some displays before we were very hurriedly directed into the tea ceremony.

The whole affair felt and was very rushed. A geiko made tea at the front of the room and was assisted by a maiko.

During the ceremony, workers placed a cup of tea and red bean sweet in front of us for our enjoyment.  The sweet arrived on a hand-painted plate that was ours to keep as a souvenir.

I was so busy taking pictures that I had to scarf down both my tea and sweet while people were rushing us to leave the room. I wished we had more time to soak everything in, but I thought it was still worth it to attend the tea ceremony.

We were then escorted to a holding area where we waited until the theatre was open for seating. In this area, there was a souvenir stand, restrooms and a sitting area.

Finally, it was time for the show. Our seats were lovely, in the center on the first floor and not too far back.

As many things in Japanese culture, this performance focused somewhat on seasonality. Many scenes depicted the changing of seasons. Since it was cherry blossom season, this also played heavily into the setting and staging of the dances. 

I couldn't follow everything that was going on, but the dances were mesmerizing. I was amazed by the grace and elegance of their movements.

Source: Miyako Odori

Source: Miyako Odori

The 2015 Miyako Odori takes places April 1 to 30, 2015 - four times daily (12:30, 2:00, 3:30 and 4:50). The performance lasts one hour.

Ticket prices vary:

¥4,800 Special Class ticket - reserved seating on the first floor or front area of the second floor or in a designated tatami mat area on the second floor balcony. Ticket also includes tea ceremony with souvenir plate. 

¥4,200 First Class ticket -  Reserved seating on the second floor or in a designated tatami mat area on the second floor balcony.

¥2,500 Second Class ticket - Non-reserved bench seats on the third floor

Tickets may be reserved online.

*Information accurate on date of publication* 

Kyoto - Spring Illuminations

During cherry blossom season, several locations around Kyoto stay open at night and the buildings and trees are illuminated for all to enjoy.

We had a few hours before nightfall, so we spent some time walking around the Higashiyama District of eastern Kyoto.

We found a nice spot in Maruyama Park and people-watched. It was quite amusing watching some of the cherry blossom revelers, who couldn't seem to hold their liquor and nearly fell into the pond. 

We started making our way to our first illumination site: Kiyomizudera. The path leading to the temple is along a steep street that is lined with traditional wooden buildings that serve as shops and restaurants. 

It is hard to tell but the street made for quite a strenuous walk it was on such an incline! 

We finally arrived at the temple and the walk was worth it. Just look at these views!

Kiyomizudera means "Pure Water Temple" and derives its name from the Otowa Waterfall, which is located on this site. 

The temple is also known for its large wooden stage that is accessible from the temple's main hall. It is from here that we and other visitors were able to get such marvelous photos of the spring blooms. 

The waterfall is located at the base of the main hall, so we ventured down there to drink from its streams, which is supposed to be good luck!

Next we headed to Kodai-ji, another temple participating in the spring illumination. While Kiyomizudera is a vast complex, Kodai-ji is smaller in scale, but its interiors are decorated in beautiful accents. Sadly, photos were not allowed of the inside. 

The temple also features Zen gardens which surround the temple buildings and, of course, were lit up for the occasion.

There were even some multimedia art displays being projected onto the huge gravel rock garden.

My favorite part of Kodai-ji was the bamboo grove in the back. The illumination made for a pleasant stroll through the grove.

When ended our spring illumination viewing at one of the largest cherry blossom trees in Japan, which is located near Maruyama Park.

Kyoto - Bamboo, Shrines and Palaces

Our original plan was to stay in Kyoto for two nights during our trip to Japan last spring. I quickly realized that would be entirely too little time and added a day trip from Osaka into our itinerary. We were able to fit in quite a lot over this beautiful spring day. Our day was filled with some of Kyoto's most famous attractions.

From Osaka Station, it was a short 30 minute train-ride to Kyoto. We started our day in the Arashiyama section of town.

Arashiyama Bamboo Grove is one of Kyoto's oft-photographed sights, and it is not hard to figure out why. The bamboo grove is an atmospheric and serene location for a daytime walk, even with the crunch of the cherry blossom season crowd.

On the approach to the bamboo grove are many souvenir and snack shops. We picked up these delicious rice balls to enjoy on our stroll.

We returned towards Arashiyama Station and walked along the riverside. 

The mass of cherry blossom trees were in full bloom all along the river. The view of Togetsukyo Bridge next to the trees reminded me of why we decided to come to Japan during this season.

We crossed over Togetsukyo Bridge to venture over to Arashiyama's main drag. As we were making our way across, we came across these three young ladies in full maiko gear. I am not sure whether they were real maiko or just tourists dressed up to look like them. I suspect they were tourists.

Our last stop before lunch was Monkey Park Iwatayama, which I wrote about last year soon after our trip. Then it was off to lunch on the main drag. We stumbled upon this restaurant and were able to grab a table before the lunch crush.

I ordered a delicious meal of cold soba and rice balls. Yum! So simple but tasty.

Following lunch, we hoped a bus to Kinkaku-Ji (the Golden Pavilion). Originally, the site served as the retirement villa of a shogun, but following his death, it became a Zen temple. 

Kinkaku-Ji was one of the most impressive sights we visited on our entire trip. Not only was the building itself stunning, but it is in the middle of a large pond with lush green gardens surrounding it. I could just imagine what a peaceful respite this place would make. 

We continued on our whirlwind tour of Northern Kyoto and visited Nijo-jo, a feudal castle dating to 1603.

Entrance gate to Nijo-jo

The castle is surrounded by stone walls as well as a moat and consists of several buildings and gardens.  

After walking through the large entrance gate, we came upon the ornate Karamon Gate that leads visitors to Ninomaru Palace, the main building open to the public. Unfortunately, photos were not permitted within the palace.

Karamon Gate, leading to Ninomaru Palace

Ninomaru Palace

The Palace served as the residence and office of the shogun, with tatami-matted rooms and painted sliding doors. Most interesting were the corridors with "nightingale floors," which squeak when walked on. This was used as a security measure!

Outside the Palace was a traditional Japanese garden, with, of course, more cherry blossom trees. 

The day was winding down with the temperature dropping and the sunlight getting dimmer, but we decided to push on and visit one last spot. 

Fushimi Inari Shrine is a Shinto shrine that is famous for its thousands of red torii gates. It is a sight to behold! Plus, as you can see, the rows of torii make for great photographs. 

The shrine is dedicated to Inari, the god of rice, and foxes symbolize the messengers of Inari. 

It was a long day in Kyoto, and we were happy to be on our way back to our hotel in Osaka!